Perched inside an open bay window of Cogito Coffee on Dezelica, a residential corner near the Croatian National Theatre, you’ll see families walking their dogs pass by as the sun begins to set. Locals who took their seats earlier in the afternoon have staked out the terrace and linger over their cigarettes, entrenched in conversations and smiles, though the coffee cups have long been empty.

Though Balkan coffee itself might be more famous in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the capital of Croatia, Zagreb, is home to a deeply entrenched culture of life over coffee. The drinks are similar to those found in Italy or Austria because Zagreb inherited the culture during its time under the Austro-Hungarian Empire – which designed and built the capital city to be a “little Vienna.”

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